Field Trips in Fiber

Beginner Sewing Class Sample

I realize that this isn't much to get excited about but these are scrubs for a beginner garment sewing class. I really enjoy teaching beginner sewing classes. It's fun to be there when someone finishes their first sewing project, especially if it's something that they are proud to wear. I am teaching two beginner sewing classes at Quilting Adventures. The first is the Retro Aprons class. I taught this last month. I had two students and neither had made a garment before. One of the students was so stressed at the beginning of class (she was moving to a new home in a week) that I though she was going to break down and cry before lunch. By the end of the day she was enjoying sewing and she finished her apron before going home.

In May I am going to teach some basic garment sewing with a 2-Saturday class to make a simple shirt and elastic waist pants. I like to let the students pick their pattern and I will just provide criteria for pattern selection. For the sample we picked Kwik Sew 2807. I made 3 pieces for the shop sample and did each on a different machine. The green top was done on my Pfaff and has the seams finished with a zig-zag stitch. The pants were made totally on the serger, thanks to the cover stitch and the white print top was done totally on a straight-stitch machine with the seams either top stitched or double stitched. I want to make sure that people know they can sew garments with whatever machine they have. I sure hope I get some students!

Unfortunately, these do not count in stash used for the week. This fabric was supplied by the shop so it never counted as "in". I did use 6 buttons out of the million that I own though!

A few aprons

I a teaching a beginner sewing class at Quilting Adventures in a few weeks (and again in April) and I wanted to make some new samples. I cut them out last night in about an hour and a half and made them all tonight in about 3 and a half hours! They are all from Retro Aprons by Cindy Taylor Oates. They are all really cute patterns and terrific for a beginner sewer. I made the first one from some stash fabrics that I've had for about 4 years. I also have a 3rd fabric of cups in this same group. I think they are really cute fabrics and great for an apron.

  This purple and green one is made from fabric that I bought this week. It's a new line at Quilting Adventures called Floragraphix 2. The whole line is beautiful and I wanted to make one of the samples in something not vintage or retro looking. It's quite a classy apron don't you think? I'm pretty proud of myself for not buying more than enough fabric for this apron.

This last one is made to look truly retro from 30's reproduction fabric and vintage ric-rac trim. It's a very tailored apron with 6 pleats.

These were a lot of fun to make. I think they would be great gifts and they are a great use of stash because most of them use 1 yard or less pieces and offer lots of opportunities for mixing prints.

Now I can just hope that some people sign up for the class!

Indygo Junction Jacket

Yes, you are in the right blog and I did sew a garment! It's nothing to get excited about. This is the Indygo Junction Never the Same Twice Jacket. I made this in January for a shop sample. I was going to teach the jacket in the Spring but we didn't have enough students. It's doing better this month so I needed to get another sample done before class starts Wednesday. This is meant to be a beginner class so don't have any big expectations! LOL! I tried to do different closure details on all 3 jackets that I made.

The fabrics were chose to match two pants that I have for winter. On this side I fused three of the circle motifs on the left front and stitched around the edges with a matching thread. The pocket is made with two 1/2" button holes made about 1/2" apart. the purple tie is sewn to the jacket and each end fed through a button hole and then tied in a bow in front. That pocket is so huge that I will not need to untie the closure to use the pocket! The button is actually a mother-of-pearl button (back up), a purple button and a bead.

This side is simpler. The pocket has two large buttonholes and the buttons are painted with some of my new Stewart Gill paints!  I sewed the buttons on with beads.

It only took a few hours to make this jacket - it's a perfect beginner sewing project. Unfortunately, the Extra Small is still too big. I can wear sweaters under this one!

Phoebe's Indygo Junction Jacket

I just love this pattern - it goes together so quickly!  Quilting Adventures wanted 2 samples and this is the second one in a size medium - the fabrics were chosen especially for the owner's daughter, Phoebe.  Phoebe is one of my favorite people.  For someone under 20, she really has her act together and she is incredible gifted with creative talent. 

Here are the two sides:

And here's the button treatment for the dot side.

The button is backed by a yarn flower.  Can you believe that I had this yarn in my stash for about 3 years?  Inventory is such a good thing!  I made the flower on my gift bow maker (which I never use to make gift bows!)  The ends of the flower bow are tied off with big frosted flower shaped beads.  I'm really please with the results.  I'll do my version next and deliver this one to Phoebe Monday.  I hope she will like it!

Indygo Junction Jacket

One more post today.  I just finished the Indygo Junction - Never the Same Jacket Twice sample.  This is the XL size for the shop sample.  I'll be teaching this jacket at Quilting Adventures in Richmond, VA  in May and look forward to making my own version soon.  This jacket is perfect for a beginner garment sewing class.  Here are both sides and a close up of the closure on one side.  If you decide to make this jacket, be aware that there are no size guidelines on the pattern.  Just make the best guess of one of the 4 sizes.  We will likely make other sizes for the shop so that people can try the samples on for size.  It's a fun jacket to sew together.

Red Wool Jacket - Never to be Done!

Kim, are you reading this?  You are about to get a partially completed red wool coat!  I made some good progress on the coat last night and sewed for about an hour but then my hands started burning.  I stopped, washed my hands and face and thought all would be OK.  But later in the night I had a bad allergic reaction (not uncommon for me).  So the wool is out - as I suspected it might be.  I'll pack that up today for Kim.  All is not lost though!  I have a black and white silk houndstooth that will make an equally beautiful jacket.  I'll cut that out over Christmas and maybe underline it with some flannel to make it warmer.  I suppose I will now clear out all of the wool from my fabric cabinet as well.  It's a bummer - but it's not surprising.

Sallys' Quilt Done - Red Jacket Started

I finished Sally's quilt last night.  I can't show a pic of the whole quilt because it's a test quilt for a new pattern.  This photos just shows the quilting.  The Square Spiral panto is great and goes very quickly.  I'm pleased with the final result.  Let's hope Sally likes it too!

I have a couple of very quick gifts to make this weekend but decided to get back to the Red Wool Jacket  first.  So I set up the machine and started sewing this morning.

Meanwhile, I'm working through ideas for my Winter postcard exchange.   The problem is that I have too many ideas!  How to narrow  14 to 1 really good one?????

San Miguel Jacket Completed!

A project completed in less than a week - very unusual!  I just had to keep telling myself to keep to "simple".  Overall I am happy with the completed jacket.  I did add some additional feathers to the left collar.  The jacket isn't perfect but it's done!  Here are 2 photos of the whole jacket and a close up of the sleeve cuff.  The pattern is San Miguel by Bresnan Studios .

I think my biggest mistake was in fabric choice.  The purple fabric is a bit too limp to have paired with the black.  I should have underlined the purple or not interfaced the black.  But it was a trial run and the jacket doesn't look as saggy on me as it does on Victorine.

Notes about the pattern in general:
I think the pattern is well drafted.  I do need to do a bit of redrafting of the back but that is a common alteration that I have to make and not at all reflective of the pattern.  The only thing about the pattern that disappoints me are the instructions.  They are too brief which makes them not clear.  For example, there are some steps about pressing but sometimes the pressing directions are missing.  Where there are pressing steps, it just says "press the seam" and does not provide the direction.  I also think that some of the steps are more complex than they need to be.  I've made lots of jackets and could figure this one out on my own easily, but I believe that these patterns are marketed primarily to quilters who might not know the basics of jacket construction, especially jackets with facings.  It would be a terribly confusing pattern to a new sewist.  The pattern supplements the directions with photos but often the photos are more confusing than helpful.

Notes for myself for the next one that I make:

1. The pattern has a faced hem.  I know this is done to make pocket construction easier but it also makes for a lot of bulk at the hemline.  I cut the hem onto the jacket and changed the pocket construction order.  I like the cut-on hem much better.
2. I interfaced the jacket facing, cuff facing, hems and upper back.  In the next version I might use a lighter weight interfacing.
3. The back needs to be altered a bit with my usual alteration to make it narrower.
4. I would like the jacket longer in the next version.
5. Add a zipper or toggle closure to the next version.
6. Add waist darts to the back or take in the waist a bit at the side seams.

They have another pattern, the Raglan Topper , that I might consider making in the future.  I think it was a nice (more fitted) silhouette.  But not now - I must finish my Aunt's quilt next!

San Miguel Jacket Progress

What a great perfect sewing Saturday!  No company, no phone calls and no chores.  I decided to work on the jacket today and made lots of progress.  Here's a progress photo on Victorine - my My Twin Dressform. I'm pretty happy with the results so far except for the left collar.  Once the jacket is done I think I will paint another feather or 2 on that side.  Talking to myself in the last post helped me get control on all the extra materials and techniques that I was considering using on the jacket.  I still have to do a bit of finishing work and I'll post an additional photo and all of my notes on the construction at that time.  Oh, I'm also trying to decide if I need shoulder pads.  In the photo there is a pad on the left shoulder.  What do you think? 

About Victorine.  If you are wanting a dressform, the My Twin is really worth the effort.  Mine is named Victorine because that was the name of a character in a book I was reading when she was made.  My friend, Helen, and I made them together.  It was all very funny - except for the part where I almost passed out.  It was a lot of work and takes a couple of days to make it but made a big difference in my ability to fit my garments.

Why do I have to make sewing complex?

I had wanted to get the red coat and the San Miguel jacket cut out this week so I could get set up to start sewing this weekend.  I like having everything set up so that I can sew in short bits of time.  The original plan was to do this jacket very simply so that I could whip it up quickly to test out the pattern.  I seem to have trouble with simple.

It started with the Shiva painting.  Then last night I could not decide on the design (fabric placement) for the cuffs and front panels.  I have decided to get the main parts cut out and work on the cuffs and panels while I sew.  Here are the "parts" that I might use.  I actually pulled out beads last night but put them away this morning - it doesn't need to be a 5-year project!  Sometimes I have to set rules to keep my projects from getting out of hand.  The rule here is "only machine sewing".

There will be no sewing today though.  After work I'm going with a friend to tour a new local artist  co-op and to the Wachovia Craft and Design Show that benefits the Visual Arts Center of Richmond.  They always have really wonderful things at this show.

Red Wool Jacket

While I wait for the Shiva to cure on the San Miguel jacket, I decided to get the other jacket cut out.  This is the My Favorite Jacket pattern and I decided to use red wool flannel for the coat and to make a lining out of a black/tan silk paisley.  Both fabrics are from my stash - no new purchases for this project, not even thread!  I got the wool cut out last night and the interfacing and lining done this morning.

San Miguel Jacket Started

I thought I was going to quilt today to finish my Aunt’s quilt but I didn’t have the time I had hoped so I worked on my San Miguel jacket. I pulled a purple/black multi fabric from my stash for the main fabric and black for the lapels, front facings, and sleeve cuffs. I thought that the black needed some jazzing up so I finally pulled out the Shiva Paintstiks to use. I’ve only had them for about a year! I also had this great feather stencil from Revisions (Diane Erickson) that I had not used yet so I pulled it out too. For the lapels I wanted the feathers positioned properly so I chalked the lapel outline on the fabric and then placed the stencil. I thought cutting out the lapel piece would make it harder to control while stenciling. Also, by stenciling the fabric first, I had some flexibility in the final layout.

I also stenciled some small feathers to use on the front facing and cuffs. Next I placed a piece of netting under the black and rubbed the Paintstik crayon over the fabric to create a large area of texture. I’m not sure how I will do the final layout yet but I now have several options. I’ll let it cure for a couple of days and, hopefully, cut it all out this weekend.  This photo shows both fabrics and some trims that I may also use.

 

Over the years I have been famous for buying stuff that I do not or rarely use. I am trying to be more aware of the tools and materials that I have and to make a better effort to use them. Working on fabric postcards has really helped me with that. The postcard is a quick project and does not require perfection so I find myself being more adventuresome with them. If for no other reason I will continue to do postcards just to have a lab for experiments. I think the Shiva Paintstiks are going to be a good addition to this jacket and hopefully I will have more opportunities to use them on other projects.

Pattern Testing

I used to do a lot of garment sewing.  I especially loved making suits for work.  Then I started traveling for work a lot and found a brand of clothing that was comfortable, washable, professional and traveled well.  Now, I only wear Misook for work - every day.  It makes life so much easier to wear clothing that is washable and mix and matches well and I only have to have black shoes!  I wear orthotics now so shoes aren't as exciting to buy as they used to be!  Anyway, I haven't made clothing in a couple of years.  But recently I got the urge to jump in again.  I picked a blouse pattern for a top to wear to the company Holiday Party, a casual jacket pattern that I may teach at the local quilt shop and a coat pattern.  Today was make muslin day! I hate making muslins but ALWAYS regret not doing it.  Thank goodness I did it today! 

The first pattern, My Favorite Jacket  by Cindy Taylor Oates doesn't need testing.  My friend, Kim, made this a few months ago and the size she made fits me perfectly.  I want to make it a work overcoat so will make it out of something less casual than the pattern and will probably add an underlining for warmth.

The second pattern is the San Miguel Jacket by Brensan Studios.  I made the muslin from the straight small size and it fit perfect!  That was a big surprise - but a pleasant one.  I like jackets with collars and this is a simple one to construct.  I expect that I will make this in a few different versions but the first will be in purples and black of rayon/poly blend.  I might even get it cut out tonight!

The third pattern I tried is the Miss Moneypenny Blouse by Hot Patterns.  I've been wanting to try these patterns and thought this might make a nice dressy blouse (without the bow).  Thank goodness for the muslin.  This one just is not going to work out.  The fit is way off and, since I have other things to wear to the Holiday Party, it's not worth the effort to fix it.  I may try another Hot Pattern at another time but some pattern lines just do not fit me well and this may be one of them.  They do have great patterns in current styles though.

Earlier in the day I went to the Intergalactic Bead Show in Richmond and to  Quilting Adventures to buy more beads and fabric that I don't need!
Hope you are having a productive weekend too!