Isn't it weird to see me do a garment post?
One of the reasons that I got out of garment making is that I am very difficult to fit. I'm average length from my neck to my waist but my arms are stumps. My front is a size larger than my back. My legs are short, my waist to hip length is a lot shorter than average but I'm wide front to back in the hips. I'm a mess.
Buying clothes isn't much easier. When I find clothes that fit, especially pants, I buy 3 or 4 in the same style and often in the same color.
Whe I used to sew most of my clothes, I rarely made the same garment twice. I went through all of that fitting hell for every single garment that I made. Crazy. Then I took a class with Shirley Adams and was introduced to the concept of using one pattern and changing design lines. Sewing became much more fun for a while. Of course, now those patterns that are used over and over are called TNT (tried-n-true) patterns. When I decided to start sewing clothes again I vowed to make every pattern at least twice. Pants patterns need to be able to be used dozens of times!
You might wonder why I didn't start with a skirt so fitting would be simpler. Well, I don't wear skirts and dresses. Hate them. I have made lots of pants before and even drafted my own jeans pattern. So I have some fitting knowledge.
I bought this pattern because I wanted to make some linen and silk pants for summer. Notice how fitted the pants are on the cover. I felt that would work really well with some light to medium weight fabrics.
I made the mistake of following the pattern size chart. According to my measurements I should wear between and 14 and 16. I cut out a 14.
I used my old pants sloper for the initial alterations, but only paid attention to lengths. I shortened the leg 1.5" and the length between the waist and crotch by 1/5". I also scooped out the back crotch curve a bit. Then I stitched them up.
This fabric is from my stash. I made some pants from is a few years ago and had enough left for another pair of pants. If they went horrible I was going to be OK trashing them.
In the first fitting they were HUGE. I meay gigantic huge! I took in the side seam 1/2" and the inseam 1/4" for a total of 1 1/2" on each leg.
The photo on the left is after the first fitting. (These are grainy because they are mirror reflections.) You would think that clothes that are too big would make you look smaller. You would be wrong. They add 10 pounds to you! They were still huge so I took them up until they were about a size 10. Now they fit much better.
You can see how much I took them up if you look at that motif that the arrow is point to. See how much it moved into the seam! I think I cut 5 pounds of fabric out of them and lost 5 pounds off my body without cutting out even 1 gluten-free vegan cookie!
Remember when I said that I was OK if I had to throw them out? Well, without being aware that I was doing it, I spent an extra hour cutting these out matching up the fabric pattern at the pocket opening! Old habits die hard. (Kim, you are laughing, aren't you?)
I'm glad I spent that extra time. I will wear these often I think.
Next I will make them in some pink and black linen. I'm cutting out a straight 10, with my length alterations for those. The third pair will be the silk ones. By then they should take only a couple of hours to sew together. It's so nice to use some of my garment fabric stash finally!
This was sure a long winded post for a simple pair of pants.