New Look 6005 pants

Isn't it weird to see me do a garment post? 

One of the reasons that I got out of garment making is that I am very difficult to fit. I'm average length from my neck to my waist but my arms are stumps. My front is a size larger than my back. My legs are short, my waist to hip length is a lot shorter than average but I'm wide front to back in the hips. I'm a mess.

Buying clothes isn't much easier. When I find clothes that fit, especially pants, I buy 3 or 4 in the same style and often in the same color. 

Whe I used to sew most of my clothes, I rarely made the same garment twice. I went through all of that fitting hell for every single garment that I made. Crazy. Then I took a class with Shirley Adams and was introduced to the concept of using one pattern and changing design lines. Sewing became much more fun for a while. Of course, now those patterns that are used over and over are called TNT (tried-n-true) patterns. When I decided to start sewing clothes again I vowed to make every pattern at least twice. Pants patterns need to be able to be used dozens of times!

You might wonder why I didn't start with a skirt so fitting would be simpler. Well, I don't wear skirts and dresses. Hate them.  I have made lots of pants before and even drafted my own jeans pattern. So I have some fitting knowledge.

So, that's the background. I decided to start with an elastic waist pattern for ease and comfort. I wear my shirts out anyway so the waist doesn't really matter.

I bought this pattern because I wanted to make some linen and silk pants for summer. Notice how fitted the pants are on the cover. I felt that would work really well with some light to medium weight fabrics.

I made the mistake of following the pattern size chart. According to my measurements I should wear between and 14 and 16. I cut out a 14.

I used my old pants sloper for the initial alterations, but only paid attention to lengths. I shortened the leg 1.5" and the length between the waist and crotch by 1/5". I also scooped out the back crotch curve a bit. Then I stitched them up.

This fabric is from my stash. I made some pants from is a few years ago and had enough left for another pair of pants. If they went horrible I was going to be OK trashing them.

In the first fitting they were HUGE. I meay gigantic huge! I took in the side seam 1/2" and the inseam 1/4" for a total of 1 1/2" on each leg.

 

The photo on the left is after the first fitting. (These are grainy because they are mirror reflections.) You would think that clothes that are too big would make you look smaller. You would be wrong. They add 10 pounds to you! They were still huge so I took them up until they were about a  size 10. Now they fit much better.

You can see how much I took them up if you look at that motif that the arrow is point to. See how much it moved into the seam! I think I cut 5 pounds of fabric out of them and lost 5 pounds off my body without cutting out even 1 gluten-free vegan cookie!

Remember when I said that I was OK if I had to throw them out? Well, without being aware that I was doing it, I spent an extra hour cutting these out matching up the fabric pattern at the pocket opening! Old habits die hard. (Kim, you are laughing, aren't you?)

I'm glad I spent that extra time. I will wear these often I think.

Next I will make them in some pink and black linen. I'm cutting out a straight 10, with my length alterations for those. The third pair will be the silk ones. By then they should take only a couple of hours to sew together. It's so nice to use some of my garment fabric stash finally!

This was sure a long winded post for a simple pair of pants.

 

Comments

[Karen]

I used to make clothing too but rarely do anymore. I do not know why as drawstring pants are a favorite find when I find them that fit right. I'm not quite so hard to fit as you but I have long arms, long legs, longer than normal neck to waist measurements and a wider than normal back although it doesn't look it. Almost all button down shirts never fit right as I have to buy them too baggy so they don't pull tight across the breasts (even though I don't have big ones :) ) a regular size is just too tight in that area! A wide back just isn't good for that style of shirt.
Pants fit much better!
Karen
http://karensquilting.com/blog/

[Gina]

I would love this in linen! Woohoo!

[elle]

Pretty classy, Vicki. I'm encouraged as making some of my own clothes is on the 'to-do' list. I'm so frustrated trying to find stuff that fits and that I like. I'm definitely gonna be using the patterns more that once when I get a good fit!

[Jeannie]

I am not laughing at you, I am laughing with you! I am also hard to fit and your story is similar to mine, except I have long legs and no behind, but I am short. I looked at the same pattern and thought about reviving my tailoring skills. Now, after reading your post, I am thinking I might just go to the thrift store and find some to alter! LOL! I do love the fabric you used and there is nothing better than a pair of silk pants in the summer. Thanks for your lessons learned.

[Sandy Jandik]

I have a weird body too and a waistline-something that doesn't exist anymore. If I find jeans that come close to fitting, I buy them.

[Marty Mason]

Wonderful fabric - great look. These are keepers!

[char]

I love your post, great pants, but don't temp me. I haven't made any thing for myself in years!

[Carol]

Those are some hot pants:)

[Rian]

Very nice pants. I have short legs (and a long rise) so I have to hem everything anyway. I haven't sewn garments in years...maybe I should start again. Got a sewing machine just sitting there...

[Wanda]

It is so hard to determine a pattern size from the measurements they give. I think that is why I gave up sewing garments. I am going to make some shirts this year though.

[Debbie St.Germain]

I find that the patterns look oversized and wrong type of fit for me.
That is why I want to use things I have and make patterns with those, I am picky on how mine fit;) Love the new birdies in the boxes.

Debbie

[Connie]

Way to go, Vicky, the pants are awesome.

[Summerset]

Well, at least you've ended up with pants that will work for you! I never use the size charts on the pattern envelopes. I always look at the final garment measurements printed on the pattern and then figure out what size to cut based on how much ease I want. There doesn't seem to be much consistency in amount of ease even within one pattern company these days, so if you have one pattern that works for you, stick with it!

[Judy Sall]

I have a friend who sews clothing, and she is going to fit a pattern to me so I can sew multiples! I don't know how to do it on myself, so this is the next best thing. I'm tempted to try pants too, as I have poor luck finding any variety of fabric in the store bought variety. Thanks for the inspiration!

[Linda]

Great post Vicki, very informative. I haven't sewn clothes for a few years now, but feel like making myself something again. Pants are just the pits to make for oneself or others, in my opinion. I sewed for others for almost 20 years, and definitely hated making pants. The most success I had was with one particular style from Burda, fit like a second skin, looked fantastic [not on me..........on my client]. I am a weird shape too, short, no hips, waist too big, need I go on. Thanks heaps.

[Kim]

Yep, I'm laughing!!!! Good post; I really enjoyed it.

[Cindy Is Crafty]

I am digging your cool new pants! :O)

[Kate]

I haven't sewn clothes in years, but luckily I am not a particularly odd size. I do love those trousers, though, and it would be nice to be able to choose your own fabric for clothes. But will I ever start garment making again? Almost certainly not...

[Ivory Spring]

Nice! I am impressed with how the pocket fabric matches the print. I wouldn't even how to begin to do that.